How Chef Gabriel Hernández Leads Puerto Rico’s Farm-to-Table Movement

Discover how this two-time James Beard Award nominee pioneered the use of fresh, local ingredients in Puerto Rican cuisine.

Chef Gabriel Hernández, executive chef of Puerto Rico's first farm-to-table restaurant, Verde Mesa, has made a name for himself by transforming fresh, locally sourced ingredients into culinary masterpieces. Since the restaurant's founding in 2009, he has embraced sustainable farming and elevated it to new heights in his cooking. Every dish Hernández whips up is an explosion of bright colors and mouthwatering seasonings, a feast for the senses that showcases the freshest seasonal produce — imagine local yellowfin tuna paired with papaya, pumpkin, and bok choy. A semifinalist in the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef of the South category in 2018 and a finalist in 2024. Dig into Chef Hernánez's journey from childhood cooking memories to becoming a leader in farm-to-fork dining, both deeply rooted in his Boricua culture and commitment to sustainability.

Verde Mesa dishes. — Located in Old San Juan, Verde Mesa offers dishes crafted exclusively with fresh, locally-sourced ingredients.

Exploring Culinary Paths: Share your journey of becoming a chef in Puerto Rico.

What sparked your passion for cooking?

My earliest and fondest childhood memories all revolve around food. Watching my grandpa grow and cook crabs is a favorite memory, and of course, each of my grandma's beans and serenata de bacalao (Puerto Rican codfish salad) hold a special place in my heart. Growing up, I was obsessed with cooking TV shows. I eventually entered the restaurant world through one of Puerto Rico’s pioneers of Latin nouveau cuisine, the Parrot Club, where my curiosity soared. My dear friend Loyda Rosa always believed in my creative talent. She had the vision of healing the land and eradicating the culture of imported food by serving beautiful, healthy dishes made only with local ingredients. Fifteen years later, here we are, globalizing our local produce, with her vision strongly influencing my work, along with my culinary trips to Morocco, Japan, Mexico, and South America. Of course, our head chef, Ángel Lugo, and the talented staff have also been a great source of inspiration throughout the years.

Culinary Style and Philosophy

How do you define your approach to cooking?

I approach cooking with a strong devotion to the integrity of each ingredient and a balanced combination of flavors. For me, cooking is like composing a symphony of tastes.

Tell us a bit about your culinary philosophy.

Due to industrialization and imports, many local ingredients have been lost or forgotten. At Verde Mesa, we are on a mission, together with our micro-farmers, to rediscover both common and exotic ingredients and showcase them as the stars of our dishes with a global twist. My philosophy is to remain true to my genuine, artistic expression while maintaining a strict commitment to sustainability.

Plan Your Sustainable Trip to Puerto Rico

Influence of Puerto Rican Culture

In what ways do Puerto Rico's culture and locales shape your culinary creations?

Living and working within the historic military walls of the second-oldest city in the Americas is an experience rich enough to feel haunted. Old San Juan, where Verde Mesa is located, overlooks what was once the richest commercial port in the Americas and carries the history of countless recipes brought from around the world. The Moroccan-Spanish architecture inspires me to dream of many guisos (stews) filled with spices brought by ships, intertwined with the nostalgic flavors of our native Taíno dishes.

How do you strike a balance between traditional methods and innovative practices in your kitchen?

As humans, it's impossible to leave our traditions behind while simultaneously evolving into the unknown. Traditions provide a sense of warmth and comfort, while imagination fuels our desire to explore. It's not difficult to find a balance when we respect nature and its seasons. At Verde Mesa, we follow a simple formula: our first choice is always local and sustainable; second, we embrace global spices and techniques; third, we listen to the voice of our ancestors; and fourth, we stay true to our curiosity.

Learn more about Puerto Rico's Culture

Dessert dish from Verde Mesa — Visit Verde Mesa for an unforgettable farm-to-table dining experience.

Must-Try Dishes

What is one signature dish that every visitor should experience at your restaurant or through your culinary services?

Our most beloved signature dish is the Famous Arroz Verde Mesa, inspired by Ayurvedic cuisine. It’s a vibrant feast of vegetables—bursting with colors, textures, and flavors—enhanced with dried fruits and nuts. This dish is Loyda’s creation. In line with our evolution, I would also recommend our local pitahaya and cucumber salad, sprinkled with trout roe. All ingredients are harvested in the same season, allowing diners to experience the unique flavors of that specific time and place. For dessert, our signature Purple Cloud offers a delightful combination of creamy, fruity, and crunchy textures. The silkiest fluffiest hand whipped cream swirled with mixed berries compote and topped with surprising crumbles of baked meringue and aromatic lavender flowers.

Inside Verde Mesa — Verde Mesa, located in Old San Juan, is Puerto Rico's first farm-to-table restaurant.

Puerto Rican Cuisine Essentials

From your perspective, which dish quintessentially represents Puerto Rican cuisine and why?

One dish that truly represents Puerto Rican cuisine is sancocho de viandas (stew of root vegetables). Its layers of flavors, when closely examined, tell the rich stories of the Island's culinary traditions. The sofrito, root vegetables, beef, corn, and culantro used in the dish are ingredients that hold deep historical significance in Boricua cooking.

Visitor's First Bite

What dish would you recommend to someone new to Puerto Rican cuisine?

The alcapurrias from Piñones are my favorite. Along with anise-flavored arepas from Naguabo, granitos (rice fritters) from Humacao, and pasteles from the center of the Island, these are all part of our ancestral traditions. However, for someone new to Puerto Rican cuisine, it's common to recommend mofongo. This iconic dish, made from mashed plantains and garlic, is a perfect introduction to our food.

Guide to Traditional Puerto Rican Food

First-Time Diner Tips

Do you have any advice for individuals dining in Puerto Rico for the first time?

Before dining in any country, I always recommend exploring some of its history in advance. Gastronomy can be much more appreciated when we understand how and why certain dishes came to be. This understanding even enhances the taste, offering a multi-sensory and immersive experience.

Local Dining Favorites

Could you share a few of your favorite local eateries?

The best dining experiences and foodie recommendations are easy to find through various platforms. I also recommend venturing outside the metro area. Some of my favorite secret spots include La Faena Agrococina for authentic fogón flavors, and El Rancho de Apa and Bacoa for a true countryside experience. Within the metro area, I suggest Leña Eh Food Truck, El Gallo Pinto, Cocina al Fondo, and Vianda.

Discover More Restaurants in Puerto Rico

The historic Trujillo Alto Bridge over the Río Grande de Loíza, opened in 1941, has been transformed into a pedestrian walkway.

Hometown Pride

Which municipality in Puerto Rico do you hail from?

I grew up in the community of San Justo in Trujillo Alto.

What do you cherish most about your hometown?

As a kid, there was a food truck that sold sandwiches I would eat in the mornings. They were made with pan sobao (local bread), a jamonilla (luncheon meat) omelet, and cheddar cheese. It feels nostalgic to me.