Chef Manolo López is a culinary innovator deeply rooted in Puerto Rican culture.
Raised in an environment surrounded by artists, musicians, and poets, Chef Manolo López developed a strong sense of creativity from a young age, with his journey into the culinary world fueled by his family’s unwavering support. Today, he has crafted a unique culinary philosophy that embraces a "low intervention and wholesome" approach to ingredients, focusing on sustainability, no-waste practices, and honoring Puerto Rico's traditional flavors.
One of Chef Lopéz's most popular ventures was Mofon•GO. Starting in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, under a 10’’x10’’ tent blasting salsa music, its simple yet impactful design quickly caught the attention of Smorgasburg, a well-known outdoor market where Puerto Rican cuisine was proudly represented for four years. Its success led to pop-ups across New York, feeding famous faces like Residente, Ruben Blades, and Spike Lee, and eventually taking the concept internationally to Japan. In September 2024, Chef López continued his culinary journey with the opening of Café Colmado in Manhattan’s Lower East Side—a coffee shop with a distinctly Boricua look, feel, and taste!
In this interview, he shares his insights on blending Puerto Rico’s rich cultural history with modern techniques, highlighting the Island’s flavors through locally sourced ingredients, and shares his favorite local spots.
Chef Manolo López proudly showcases a perfectly roasted lechón during a Mofon•GO pop-up.
Exploring Culinary Paths: Share your journey of becoming a chef in Puerto Rico.
What sparked your passion for cooking?
Fortunately, my family has been supportive of my passion for cooking from the very beginning. During my childhood, I was surrounded by writers, artists, musicians, and poets, which gave me the tools to create and the perfect environment for artistic experimentation. Even today, our main focus is to stay updated and maintain a hunger for learning. My journey began with the right guidance and collaboration with some of the best teachers ever.
Culinary Style and Philosophy
How do you define your approach to cooking? Can you explain your culinary philosophy?
During the last season, my main focus has been on product research and utilization, developing what I call a "low intervention and wholesome" approach to ingredients. The study centers on temperature control and the proper use of the entire ingredient, aiming for a no-waste, sustainable, and progressive vision of traditional homestyle flavors and techniques.
Chef Manolo López bringing Puerto Rican tradition to life with a perfectly roasted lechón.
Influence of Puerto Rican Culture
How do you strike a balance between traditional methods and innovative practices in your kitchen?
According to history, influences from African, Taíno, and Spanish European cultures form a strong foundation for the flavors in Puerto Rican food. The approach to Puerto Rican food is robust and healthy. From humble beginnings and basic cooking methods, we now see a modernized American influence in services and dining experiences. Long-forgotten and heirloom ingredients are being reintroduced, with technology and science bringing new textures and flavor combinations. Traditional wood-fire cooking, or fogón and criollo (Creole) techniques are also being preserved and applied to keep the authentic essence of the cuisine alive.
A mouthwatering mofongo from Chef Manolo López, filled with crispy pork, combining traditional Puerto Rican flavors with modern street food flair.
Must-Try Dishes
What is one signature dish that every visitor should experience at your restaurant or through your culinary services?
We try to maintain a proper balance and thoughtfulness with every dish and preparation, ensuring a well-rounded experience that makes each item unique and flavorful. While we preserve homestyle flavors throughout, the presentation is often not traditional. We keep in mind to at least use one locally sourced ingredient on every plate, with many dishes being made entirely from Puerto Rican ingredients. This makes the ingredients the main focus of the entire experience.
Chef Manolo López takes Puerto Rican cuisine to a global stage.
Puerto Rican Cuisine Essentials
From your perspective, which dish quintessentially represents Puerto Rican cuisine and why?
Cassava, apio (celeriac), malanga, and ñame (yam) roots are some of the more emblematic ingredients. But rice and beans, tostones, and mofongo are the more popular and commonly sought after dishes for the traditional and homestyle Boricua taste.
Visitor's First Bite
What dish would you recommend to someone new to Puerto Rican cuisine?
Asopao de pollo (chicken stew), sancocho (meat stew), cuajito (hog maws), gandinga (stew made with pig's organs), and bacalao guisado (stewed cod) are my favorite for a more robust and hearty take on the cocina de campo (country-style cooking).
Try a Puerto Rican empanadilla (deep-fried empanadas)!
Local Dining Favorites
Could you share a few of your favorite local eateries?
Puerto Rico is filled with delicious and interesting places to snack, dine, and explore. Some of my favorite spots include the roasted pig at Rancho de Apa, the ancestral approach at Cocina al Fondo, a delicious lunch at En Boga by Chef Pedro Torres, and the renewed curated menu at Verde Mesa by Chef Gabriel Hernandez. I also love the food trucks and container parks like Leña Eh and El Jangiri in Miramar, as well as sea-to-table concepts like El Cuchifrito Costero by Pablo Texidor in Cabo Rojo. For vegan options, there's Aliado by Chef Jerome in Old San Juan. And for more Boricua traditional meals go to Mesón de Melquíades in Cayey, and Gallo Pinto in Guayama.
The historic streets of Caguas are filled with tasty restaurants.
Hometown Pride
Which municipality in Puerto Rico do you hail from? What do you cherish most about your hometown?
I was born and raised in a town called Caguas. A large city in the heart and center of Puerto Rico, a well-developed area with a perfect mix of mountain and urban regions. A town rich with history and art. It is called "La Ciudad Criolla" (The Creole Town) where food, music and innovation is well maintained, making it a strong economic and developed city on the Island.
Local Exploration Recommendations
Where should visitors go, or what activities should they partake in when visiting your town?
Visit the town square and grab a loaf of pan criollo (local bread) at La Asturiana, one of the oldest bakeries in the region. Stop by for a delicious mamposturria at La Mancha de Plátano by Chef Emanuel Ocasio. Then, take a stroll through the beautiful greenery of the Botanical Garden, and finish the day with dinner at Funche Restaurant by Chef Juan Nieves.
Rapid Fire Questions
Ask for your arepas stuffed with meat or seafood.
Sancocho, arepa con bacalao’, and guanimes.
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The white-sand beaches of Vieques were among the filming locations for The Rum Diary.
I am more of a mountain and campo (country) style person, but I really enjoy Red Beach in Vieques and camping on Las Picuas in Rio Grande.
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I really enjoyed the fresh experience from the professional team at LaLa in San Juan, the traditional Spanish cuisine at Bodegas Compostela, and a nice lunch at El Gran Café in downtown Caguas.
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Reggaetón has evolved significantly in the last two decades.
Residente, Hermes Croatto, all of the local hard and progressive rock scene, El hijo de BoriKén, The International Dub Ambassadors, Rivera Destino, Ile Cabra and my kids love Los Mocosos, a punk rock educational project from Y no había luz, and so many
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Pasteles are a savory cake made from root vegetables and plantains and filled with delicious meat.
With BBQ sauce!
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Las Marías
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